FAQ & Site Info

Long list on models is posted on my website.

Most likely no, if model you asked about was not mentioned in listing. Sheaths are model-specific and were formed on model, named in listing.

Unless specifically stated in listing that this is made-to-order custom sheath, the photo is of actual item you will receive. Take a close look to see if you find it acceptable. The sheaths are fairly stiff when new, with use they will loosen up a bit. They are not as soft as bag or garment leather, that is result of completely different tanning process. Sheaths are dry on touch, bot waxy or oily, but I always can do sheath with different finish, if you like it.

No, sorry. There will be no local pick ups, mail order only, I do not have open to public facility.

The price is shown in listing, it's firm. Second half of question, absolutely no. If you know sheathmaker, who will do that to you, use him, by all means, I can't afford it. If I could make and sell them cheaper, they would be listed at minimal price, just as they are listed now. Price setting works in different way: it includes all business expenses, in time and money, and I do my best to keep them down. To put yourself in my place, you may try to do the same what I do: without skipping half of procedures, for a knife other than your already own, sell it online (and not to a friend), mail it, and deal with after sale. Track all time and expenses (including getting materials, all at retail price, making item - a lot of interrupted procedures, photographing, post-processing, listing with new wording, communications, label ordering, packing and mailing time, returns and lost in mail, cost of models, all processing fees, accounting), and mind the existence of a minimal wage. By the way, I do not haggle in principle, and do not ask to reduce price in a local store or online.

It's your, not my choice to make - you choose the shipping service and pay for it. As you know, I'm not delivering items personally, the postal system does. And it provides certain services at certain prices with certain options, that are not interchangeable. Tracking can't be added to a service that is not trackable, the next, more expensive service have yo be used. From cost efficiency point of view, Small Packets Air is the cheapest service and reliable too, in my experience so far. And it's fast - not as Priority - but fast, and any delays are usually at customs, what is beyond my or postal service control.

I always do. Usually the same business day, and if paid beyond business hours - the next business day. Holiday days may differ for Canada and US, if there is a very long weekend, I usually send a message when package will be shipped. If you bought Small Package as shipping service, there is no tracking number, only reference number of entry in postal system. All information about tracking can be checked by you on Canada Post website.

As always, doing my best. If you are expecting answer from me and didn't receive it in 24 hrs, except weekends and holidays, then I didn't receive your message, send it again, please.

Shipping that you pay includes cost of shipping paid to Canada Post (usually shown on the mailing label) plus $1 for a mailing box, wrapping and cushioning materials, label, mailing tape, converted to USD. I, just like you, would like to see shipping free or much cheaper, but can't find postal service doing that. If you aware of it, point me in the right direction and I'll use it. So far, even at such prices, Canada Post is the cheapest and reliable locally available postal service.

Use piece of waxed paper (dollar store baking kind works good enough) to wrap the knife twice, insert it in the sheath and then remove. This procedure can be repeated. If you feel that the sheath still is too tight for your liking, inform me and return it for refund. I always try the sheath on my knife before listing to make sure that the sheath fits properly.

If, with time, the white wax-like spot or layer appears on sheath made from English Bridle or Saddle Skirting leather, this is completely normal and seems to be a mark of leather quality. These are oils and waxes, added to keep leather in a good shape, that are migrating to the top. If you have time, make web search for "English bridle leather" and "bloom" or "spew", you will see the photos of the leather conditioning process and examples of bloom, with advice to use rubbing by soft cloth to make waxes migrate back, into the deeper layers. What works for me: light rubbing by soft denim (light colored side) to heat the spot. It's all. Why on Saddle Skirting leather? Essentially, I do conditioning myself to make Saddle skirting similar to English bridle. Saddle skirting is used because these colors are nor available for English bridle, and because some well known sheath makers use it too.

Sheaths are made from vegetable tanned top grain cowhide leather, and, depending on the process that tannery used, it either undyed natural tooling/carving leather (stiffest, least prone to show pressure marks), English bridle leather (most pliable and richest in conditioner before water resistant finish was applied, as a consequence it will have more pressure marks), or Saddle skirting (subjectively more dense, as if it was hard-rolled, initially has no conditioning and surface waxes as English bridle leather has, I add conditioners and finish myself). Hand dyed tooling leather, even with conditioner, is very stiff when new. This is normal. Most sheaths and holsters are made from this type of leather. It can be made slightly less stiff by using less water-resistant leather finish. I usually use finish that produces best, in my opinion, result. You can ask me to use not water-resistant finish/treatment, if you want, providing that you are aware that water resistance of the sheath will be lower. But under any circumstances it can't be made as soft and pliable as chrome tanned leather, due to the nature of tanning process.

After of not being able to offer all possible variations for all models being ready to ship (affordability and viability issue), the scuff-resistance of the sheaths is my main concern. Let's see why this happens and what is possible to do about it. Why: Knife handle and screws are harder than leather is, guess who wins and who loses in this competition. What was done: I tried all available finishes, leathers and possible procedures, and I'm using the best based on my tests' results. For friction fit sheaths the scuff marks and scratches from screws are still possible, especially for the models with protruding or sharp screws, studs, high relief scales or sandpaper-like finish of handle. What else could be done: 1. Use re-appliable finish that will mask scuffs and scratches, you will have to re-apply finish as often as necessary. Water resistance will be lower, as well as there will be less dye sealing action, so undyed insides would be better. 2. Making box-like, no fit sheaths: flat pouch with flap (closed knife case). Lining would help, but not a deerskin (protected species, CITES). Cost of materials and work go up, but I can do it. 3. Oil-tanned leather, suede side to the knife, also may be used. There is no information if only oils were used in tanning process, or if this is an oil re-tan after chrome tanning, no definitive information available from supplier. 4. Suede is a chrome-tanned. Generally only veg tan is recommended to be used for sheaths where is contact of the sheath with metal, some say that suede works just fine. I can get it in different colors, if you are willing to take the risk. Due to increased amount of work price will be higher. Conclusion: Now you see the problem. I researched all possible options, results are listed above, and I'm still open to suggestions.

Current sheaths are made for the best protection with the least customer involvement in care. As long as sheath is worn under the coat, even on Alaska, it should be fine. But if you wish another type of finish, there are specialized compounds for extreme temperatures (Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner) and, a separate group, water-resistant finishes (Sno-Seal, Montana Pitch Blend, Obenauf's, Pecard's) that allows to make more flexible sheaths, good for outdoors, plus scuff marks could be lessened by repeated application of such compound as necessary. See reviews on the web what wonders they make for a boots protection and rejuvenation. Most of them are beeswax plus some oil based, if you prefer beeswax-neatsfoot oil finish (less water-resistance) - ask for it specifically. Drawbacks: repeated applications by user will be necessary to maintain the layer that protects leather. Choices, choices, choices... Unfortunately, there are no one perfect finish. Some may become brittle (acrylic and lac) if worn on Alaska outside the coat, some (beeswax-oil without anything else) may melt and possibly bleed wax and color in hot summer in California. They are widely used anywhere by thousands of people, who swear by it, yet, as I tested, performance differs.

Results depend mostly on properties of particular hide I get, not on me: I use the same dyes, finishes and techniques as always. Chocolate brown sheath from previous hide came absolutely even in color, while the same from a new hide is uneven, as if was aged. Sometimes even parts of the same hide differ. Small surface marks are normal for a leather, this is a natural material. I'm doing my best to select the best parts for a fronts and I always get the best hide from available.